and I think to myself what a wonderful world

While each town is as enchanting as the next, Polignano a Mare is Puglia’s postcard town- a beautiful village of white and gold buildings spectacularly positioned right on top of some pretty dodgy looking craggy cliffs overlooking the crystal-clear Adriatic Sea… truly living up to its name as it literally couldn’t be any more ‘at sea’.

…brimming with shops hidden between white-washed alleyways, restaurants carved into cliffs, and an iconic, very photogenic, almost always crowded beach called Cala Porto…also known as Lama Monachile for the bridge that you must walk over to reach it.

We are by this stage familiar with the pebbly beaches of the Mediterranean, but this one was something else- more like river rocks and not the most comfortable to sit on.

So instead, we snagged a seat and a wine at Fly Bar, where we could overlook the whole magnificent scene from the comfort of our lounge chair.

The town itself is spectacular, and while the girls prepare for our big night out, I wander under the Porto Vecchio and into a maze of alleys…

…and continuously find myself on panoramic terraces, rewarded with stunning views down to the caves and beaches below.

Reluctantly I return to also dress for the actual reason we chose to visit this little seaside town besides it’s obvious beauty. We have a booking at the Grotto Palazzese- another bucket list ✔️.

Located in the historical centre of Polignano a Mare, the Grotta Palazzese Hotel, situated on the scenic cliff overlooking the sea, rests on the famous Grotta Palazzese, a natural cave that hosts the amazing restaurant considered among the 10 most exclusive outdoor restaurants in the world. It is a magical and enchanted place.

Well out of our budget, we had discussed this months ago before booking, and decided it would be an experience money cannot buy and so, well worth the expense.

On one side this stunning restaurant overlooks the sea, with a view of the coastal landscape and the marine horizon; on the other, towards the larger cave, the cave itself being composed of two caves of different sizes.

Even the bathrooms have a spectacular view.

The terrace can accommodate up to 150 people, in a place that, although outdoors, is sheltered by the vault of the cave. That was the theory anyway…but disappointingly not our reality as it was an exceptionally windy night… with chairs, glasses and serviettes being blown around and even one of our menus being flung into the wild seas below.

We were aware that Grotto Palazzese has many poor reviews about the food and service, but not being harsh food critics, we were expecting great things…and loved the whole experience.

I rise early once again but decided not to walk the town as we had such an amazing view from our own terrace. The town is slow to awaken as it takes quite a while for the sun to rise highly enough to be visible but the colours of the rocks and the buildings built on the huge rocks are stunning during the sunrise.

This remarkable city, the third-longest continuously inhabited human settlement in the world, that once held so much sorrow, is one of the most unique and fascinating places you will ever visit anywhere in the world. Carved into the rock, Matera is composed of a network of caves inhabited since the Paleolithic era. The grey city is haunting in a way, its location bleak on the edge of a a rugged ravine, parched grasses and spiky cacti amongst the outcrops descending to the trickle of the river below. You can look across the ravine and see a hill punctuated with small caves; these are actually the palaeolithic caves which make Matera’s story so unique.

In more recent years, unknown to much of Italy, the city hid a society living in poverty… malaria was rife…and families lived alongside their animals within the caves as recently as the 1950’s…with no toilet facilities or water source. Child mortality rates exceeded 50 per cent. “Old’ Matera has come a long way in the since then and is now considered one of the cultural centres of Europe. The caves, once pits of squalor are now sought-after boutique accommodation. Today it is a place to stroll in the sun, marvel at the architecture, fall in love and gain a sense of all that is wonderful in southern Italy.

The first glimpse of the Matera sassi stops you in your tracks…looking down at the dramatic tangle of grey stone houses…walking down a steep staircase, we plunged into a magical world that doesn’t quite feel real. In search of our hotel we wander the narrow lanes that run higgledy-piggledy courses through the caves.

The streets are such tiny little alleyways, with so many staircases that even Google maps seemed to be confused…which meant trying to find our hotel was a bit of a laugh…at least to start.

Buildings climb up and down the hillside, houses piled on top of each other, the roofs of some (our hotel was one of these) acting as streets for those above.

They were carved out of the rock and the original caves extended with facades that look like normal homes. The best way…or really the only way…to explore the neighbourhoods is on foot, roaming through the labyrinth of narrow alleyways, interconnecting loops, up and down the uneven stone staircases…discovering dead ends and pretty little courtyards adorned with flowerpots and green cacti…cave churches and expansive views of the sassi…disappear through spectacular archways to encounter a magical world that doesn’t quite feel real and looks not of this time…it almost feels as if you’ve been transported back to the ancient Holy Land and it’s easy to see why so many filmmakers have adopted Matera as the setting of choice for Biblical-era cities.

Chimneys erupt from the cobblestones and it feels like you are on the set of a movie. Hang on a minute…we actually are…and we are unwitting extras in the next James Bond movie set which is being filmed here. We are made to wait for what seemed like an interminable time in the hot sun, not able to get to our hotel due to filming. A couple walking…I’m not sure how that can be done wrongly but they redo the scene over and over. I think of a time years ago when my youngest son Chrissy was sick with an ear infection and we were standing at the doctors reception having just been told there would be a long wait…he timed his fainting perfectly and we were rushed straight in. I wondered if a pretend faint would stop them filming long enough to allow us to pass and get to our hotel to check in. We are eventually able to continue on our way but these inconveniences continue as the filming has pretty much taken over the town for the next 5 months.

The only two ‘specific’ things I was wanting to see while here were closed to the public- Madonna de Idris, a small church chiselled into the rock which we could see clearly as we wandered and was being used extensively for filming.

The other was a cave restaurant recommendation- Trattoria del Caveoso, as rustic as you can get and carved into the stone- but this had been taken over by crew for the duration of filming.

At times it was quite exciting to see how a big budget movie is made. We even watched a scene being filmed with the James Bond car in it

So, despite the inconveniences, we loved this unique town and could not help but be awe-struck…so expressive and touching is its sorrowful beauty…

From Otranto we head north again and decide to start the day with a quick dip at Sant’Andrea’s famous grotto. The coastline in this area is scattered with incredible rock formations and the water is crystal clear and blue.

We negotiate the rock staircase and jump in…we are old hands at cliff jumping now!

We then head away from the aquamarine waters of the Mediterranean and the cute little seaside towns, to a stunning green expanse of countryside known as Valle d’Itria. Dotted with iconic whitewashed trulli and abundant olive groves, its narrow winding lanes lead from one pretty village to the next.

We make a stop at the little town of Locorotondo…a name that flows from our lips in the most wonderful of ways, and a delightful place deserving of the acolade ‘Borghi più belli d’Italia’ (one of the most beautiful villages in Italy). It is a labyrinth of whitewashed buildings; its quiet streets kept pristine by residents who decorate their balconies and staircases with pink geraniums. 

The most fabulous thing about it is the lack of attractions. This is a town to simply get lost in for a few hours…to wander the tiny streets of the old town…to sit in the sun and drink a glass of local wine…perhaps peruse one of the little boutiques or dine at one of the impossibly cute side street restaurants.

Or so we hoped as we were starving and it was 3.00pm. But this is a part of the world where the beating heart of community is set firmly in the past. This means long siestas, shops opening early in the morning and late afternoon (but not in between) and a true sense that however much of a rush you may be in, it really makes very little difference to those that live here. There was no restaurant open until 7.30 in the evening- so starving we would stay!

Being perched atop a big hill, Locorotondo is a fantastic place from which to survey the spectacular countryside around. As we wandered the small street that encircles its highest point, offering spectacular panoramic views, we came across a little vineyard offering tastings, right there on the street. Locorotondo’s sparkling white wine is famous in Italy, apparently available in many restaurants throughout the region of Puglia,and we purchased a bottle to be enjoyed at another time.

We continued on towards Alberobello- a tiny town I had stumbled upon online years ago…that I thought I would never actually see. Another dream come true. We arrived in town, driving down streets skinnier than models on a catwalk in our large beast until we could no longer move forward or backwards. The neighbours came out to see what was happening with these four crazy Australian women…. and the police were called. Once again in fits of laughter, we befriend the police people (who of course don’t speak English) who organise a very competent driver to manoeuvre our car out of its predicament and park it in an appropriate place. The police woman even asks for a photo with us and there are hugs all round as we go on our way.

Alberobello- the closest thing Ive found to being in some sort of fantasy or fairytale world…and you half expect to see a hobbit or the seven dwarves emerge onto the cobbled streets from these stubby homes of whitewashed walls and pointy roofs stacked with grey limestone. I couldn’t contain my excitement walking through the streets and into the little houses including our traditional trulli bnb with its conical roof and stone walls.

I go out briefly on reconnaissance and to take some photographs…and find the Belvedere Trulli lookout which offers fabulous views over the whole higgledy-piggledy picture.

I know where we need to head in the morning so return to our bnb surrounded by a magnificent sunset- and I am always the girl to get excited when the sky is in pretty colours.

We have a wonderful pasta dinner in a little family run trattoria where Karen has the opportunity to learn how to roll and shape orrecchiette, the local speciality pasta.

Undoubtedly the sole reason to come to Alberobello is to wander the truilli lined streets…there is after all, no other place like this in the world. This UNESCO world Heritage site is a dense mass of 1500 of these beehive shaped homes. The dry-stone buildings are made from local limestone and were built in this pyramid shape without cement because they could be easily dissembled. Therefore, residents could avoid paying taxes on their homes.

The truili zone contains over 1000 truili and almost no other types of building style. It is touristy, with gift shops on every other doorway, but also very pretty.

There was no plan…we just meandered to our hearts content, finding the odd quiet street or ridiculously photogenic nook off the main thoroughfare.

We stop for breakfast so the girls can all have the usual coffee to feed their addiction and I have my first taste of burrata which I have been highly anticipating. Burrata is a specialty type of cheese from Puglia and it’s delicious… a pouch made of buffalo mozzarella with cream and soft cheese inside- fabulous with anything but I savour it on an amazing fresh bread roll with fresh local ham and tomatoes. Heaven in a bread roll!

Back to our beast and we decide that it is easier to continue to pack a couple of days worth of clothes in an overnighter rather than trying to lug our big heavy suitcases up hills and staircases and over cobbles. Karen’s wheels and Anne’s handle have already broken. We all pull our suitcases out and open them in the street to sort for the next couple of days travel, much to the amusement of passers by.

And then, once again we make tracks for the next amazing chapter in our story.

Honestly it doesn’t matter that Ive been to Italy several times- and for weeks at a time. I could come 50 times and barely scratch the surface of this amazing country and I know I will always be back. But I have never been to Puglia.

Commonly referred to as Italy’s “heel,” the region of Puglia is arguably the country’s most stunning landscape…and like a secret…an undiscovered spot in paradise…mostly untouched by international tourism.

Think: hundreds of kilometers of beautiful, jagged Mediterranean coastline with its ancient stone towers, hidden caves and beaches with clear turquoise waters…

…groves upon groves of ancient olive trees, and marvellous little cozy whitewashed towns carved into hillsides in tones of white and gold…

…with south Italian flair and the friendliest locals you’ll meet anywhere (mostly 😂)… rich in churches and palaces, hidden piazzas and winding alleyways, colourful markets and slow food trattorias serving some of the most incredible seafood, pasta, and wine in the world — and the only thing better than the region’s food and wine is the people who make it. Le dolce vita…living the true Italian lifestyle.

We fly into Brindisi and hire a car for the next 12 days. It is a big VW beast which I am conscious will make life difficult in the tiny alleyways of many of the towns we will visit- but necessary with 4 women and their suitcases plus any shopping we have already accumulated.

We punch Roca Vecchia into Google maps…with a full tank of fuel and sunshine creeping above the hills in front of us. We set off on the beginning of our 12 day road-trip from Puglia to Tuscany, ready for adventure.

Our first stop is in the small town of Roca, where we visit a pretty insane looking grotto called Grotto della Poesia or the Cave of Poets.

Legend has it that once upon a time there was a beautiful princess who loved to swim in the clear water of the cave, so, many poets came to Roca to dedicate their poems to her. I dont know about any beautiful princess but this granny definitely thinks that the grotto is worthy of poetry.

Literally a 100- ft wide natural sinkhole/swimming pool at the seas edge surrounded by limestone cliffs from which the daring jump into the cool clear turquoise waters below. While I’m certainly no adrenaline junkie and have a distinct fear of heights, it did look like an opportunity not to be missed. It was one of those things that looks easy but feels precariously high when you are standing on the edge…but the lure of those waters below were just too tempting. We jumped…

…and then explored the caves with the most unbelievable turquoise coloured water, it almost looked luminous…and swam under an archway into the Adriatic Sea. An exhilarating experience!

We then headed for our next stop where we would spend our first night in Puglia. Otranto is right on the Adriatic sea, gazing out across the strait towards the Balkans and Greece and has a mix of history, architecture, views, sea-front restaurants and a white sandy beach. The imposing castle, thick perimeter walls and robust towers (built after the town was liberated from the Turks in the late 15th century) dominate much of the town, giving way to a small port full of beautiful boats and a series of sea-front promenades with many restaurants and bars. We stay in the old town…typically bustling and whitewashed, where beautiful restaurants and shops hide down white cobblestone alleyways.

There are sweeping views of the sparkling turquoise waters from the top of the citadels walls and our gorgeous hotel overlooks the port. We immediately feel the Puglian vibe…quiet…authentic perhaps…not yet found by masses of tourists…small for sure, but extremely picturesque. We briefly wander the streets… the gleaming white jumble of houses, churches and charming piazzas spread over the clifftop…cafes, restaurants and little stores and although there were a few people roaming around, it was still pretty empty compared to Greece.

We enjoy a sunset drink in a bar on one of the castle towers and then, on recommendation we have dinner in a lovely little family restaurant run by the most wonderful people.

Meandering through the little boutiques after dinner, I excitedly notice a woman carrying an ‘Antica Sartoria’ shopping bag- a gorgeous and unique label I recognised from shopping in Positano a few years ago. I had hoped to find one of these boutiques on this trip as I knew we would all enjoy the experience…white lace, frills, embroidery, crochet, tassels and other embellishments. We were all in big trouble…pretty much trying on the whole store and shopping up a storm. A blessed ending to another perfect day.

I rise early as I usually do while travelling, wanting to photograph the sunrise…

…and the town with few people. I actually love this time of the day when I am alone and away from home.

And then we are off on our next adventure…

Rome was never in our plan as we had decided to avoid the big cities- but could not get connections from Milos to Brindisi in one day. So- Rome bound we left Milos and there began our comedy of errors.

It’s pretty much standard that I set the alarms off going through security with all my embellishments, accessories and dingle dangles. But leaving Athens they just kept sending me back to remove one item at a time…looking homeless…shoeless… jewelleryless… they eventually took me behind the curtain and realised it was a dangle on my Camilla pocket skirt. As a result of my time-consuming strip tease- we descend the stairs and Anne questions, “where is the plane?” as it is nowhere to be seen (Anne perhaps you need new glasses). It is small but waiting in the distance on the tarmac and we make a run for it in fits of laughter.

We were very grateful that our luggage was sent straight through from Milos to Rome….but fast forward to the carousel…and of course…no luggage. We discover that because it was sent straight through and ended up on a different flight it was now in another terminal. We walk what seems like miles with a lovely young man in the same situation…who thankfully is very helpful and speaks Italian…and have to go through security again to get back into the baggage claim area. Now my Athens experience is repeated, but this time with a very surly security officer who keeps requesting that I remove items from my body…eventually asking me to remove my headband. I’m insisting that it’s the dangle on my skirt but take it off anyway and go through again. I was wrong- it was the wire in my headband. A very sarcastic ‘I told you so’ look and comment ensues but we are finally on our way, luggage in tow. Note to self- don’t argue with a security officer if you don’t want to look and feel like an idiot!

Rome, Italy’s capital, is a sprawling, cosmopolitan city with nearly 3,000 years of globally influential art, architecture and culture on display. It is a heady mix of haunting ruins, awe-inspiring art and vibrant street life. Ancient ruins such as the Roman Forum and the Colosseum evoke the power of the former Roman Empire and after wasting a good hour trying to find our luggage… thankfully… and to the first timers excitement, the hour spent driving to our hotel we pass many of these ancient landmarks. We finally arrive at sunset…

…and have just enough time to fight the crowds to gain a glimpse of the Trevi Fountain ….

and then to have pizza and vino by the Spanish steps in a little rooftop restaurant I remembered from a previous trip here, lapping up the dolce vita that holidaying in Italy is all about.

I had seen pictures of the extraordinary Sarakiniko in my trip research so I knew it would be amazing…sculpted over the centuries by wind, waves, and volcanic activity. I can honestly say I have never seen a landscape like this. With white white cliffs which kind of resemble massive folds of whipped cream….…volcanic odly shaped rock formations leading down into the deep blue-green sea, it felt like we were walking on the moon.

We splashed in the water of the sheltered beach and explored the caves under the seemingly snow-capped rocks, and felt like we were in a digitally manipulated landscape.

As we were all quite matchy-matchy with our swimwear today, we decided to have a fun little photo shoot in this amazing environment with Karen as our photographer (her new found passion).

We clamoured up the white rocks and then the fun began. We were actually being cheered on and even photographed by onlookers below. Sue really had her inner butterfly going on (get it girl)…Anne was her usual serene angel self…and me…well I just kept getting caught up in my sarong…and never quite made it out of my chrysalis.

We did laugh…a lot…and the entire experience will remain a vivid memory forever.

Known as the island of colours thanks to its jewel coloured waters, volcanic rocks that paint the beaches red, pink and orange, and buildings painted in vivid primary tones, the horse-shoe shaped island of Milos floats serenely in the Aegean Sea. The island has a mythological landscape, uncrowded taverna-lined port towns and the bluest water in the Cyclades. What a change of pace from the overcrowded and touristy Santorini.

We arrive at our peaceful island accommodation …an old windmill…and definitely off the beaten track. This was the first accomodation we booked for this trip and we were all excited at the prospect of sleeping in a windmill…so unique and full of character.

It is sunset and we are immediately in awe of the, literally 360° view. Just wow!

So many times already in our few days since leaving home, have we been left speechless. It is also crazily windy…probably the only negative on this island, if you want to look for one.

As a contrast to Santorini, people come to Milos for its countless beaches and swimming spots, which are ready to compensate swimmers for the effort required in reaching them. Each has a unique allure and you can wake up wondering what the day will offer…all different colours and all different combinations of sand, stone and shell. The more remote and harder they are to reach, perhaps the greater the reward.

With limited time on the island we could only choose a few… and first on our agenda was possibly Greeces’most unique beach- the white rocky landscape of Sarakiniko, which forms a once in a lifetime encountered lunar landscape…and deserves its own little blog.

From here it is not far to Mandrakia, where on several recommendations we choose to eat rather than swim.

Here, I am excited to come upon a row of octopus hanging from a clothes line stretched across two poles outside the seaside taverna- like laundry drying in the sun.

It is an iconic image of Greek summer and I had sent photos like this to the girls in anticipation of our trip…particularly to trigger Sue, who is not a fan 😂.

I, on the other hand, love octopus and regularly order it when we dine at one of our favourite restaurants at home- Georges. It is the ultimate Aegean treat…an essential taste of summer at the shore…a quintessential Greek food and perfect seaside holiday meal. I was excited to try the sun baked tentacles seared on the chargrill.

Apparently when it’s fresh, octopus is very hard, so fishermen will beat it against the rocks several times- tradition requires at least 40 times- in order to tenderise it. After that, it can be prepared in as many ways as the imagination can conjure

Crispy and Smokey in the outside and soft, juicy and slightly chewy on the inside. The combination of smoke and sea- just how I like it… also tried it marinated in vinegar which makes it unbelievably tender.

We move onto Firopotomas with its colourful pebbled sand…

…and then to the volcanic Paleochori, which has cliffs of gold, purple, green, rose and white…

Volcanic heat rises up through part of the beach and many of the restaurants cook their lamb or fish in ovens buried in the geothermal sand. Sadly we were too full from our seafood lunch at Mandrakia and I am disappointed to not have the opportunity to try this local speciality. Instead I walk to the end of the beach for a swim…with difficulty…not used to the coarse sand mixed with small colourful pebbles which give the beach and the water a different outlook. Warm underwater springs can be felt at some places around the shore due to the volcanic activity .

On several recommendations, we take a boat cruise to Kleftiko which is only reachable by water. The yacht drifts in silence as we sun our legs wishing for the tan we see on so many around us.

It’s difficult to believe you are looking at something in nature. You sense the explosion that vaulted the cliffs from the sea…in their reds and yellows and whites like huge abstract canvasses…

…massive encrusted rocks with curves and ripples and holes and caves rising from the bluest water in the Cyclades. We anchor in Kleftiko, and we swim and snorkel in secluded rocky caves. I am once again at a loss as to how to describe the experience of swimming around huge rock formations jutting out of the crystalline turquoise waters. When the boat’s horn sounds a warning, I very reluctantly return.

We have another opportunity to dive from the boat at Gerontas beach which is lined in black volcanic sand. But the wind had picked up and not many chose to take advantage this time.

We take a walk up the hill to Plaka which is at the top of a large mountainous hill and offers breathtakingly beautiful views onto the Milos Gulf and the Aegean Sea below. With its narrow cobblestone back streets, whitewashed courtyards and Cycladic-style balconies festooned with bougainvillea…

…it is picture perfect and I leave the girls drinking a cocktail to wander it’s tiny alleyways and feed my photography addiction.

We then watch the magical sunset at the Virgin Mary of the Seas church

…before dinner in one of the many lively tavernas. Definitely a favourite little village with the most exquisite details everywhere you look and a fabulous last night on Milos.

After literally running the length of Athens airport after our booked and paid transfer failed to show up, we did manage to board our flight paradise bound.

Santorini…the name is pretty much synonymous for “Paradise on Earth”. I had visited for a few hours while on a cruise about 10 years ago and that was certainly my memory and I had always wanted to return and actually stay here. Paradise on earth! But when our airport transfer pulled up in a car park next to a supermarket, I began to feel a little nervous. Maybe it was not what I remembered and I had romanticized the last visit in my mind. Maybe the girls would be disappointed as I had built this place up too much in their imagination, every morning sending them pictures of one of our destinations. These thoughts were running through my mind when our gorgeous young accommodation host met us, literally threw a suitcase on his shoulder and dragged another and beckoned us to follow. We climbed a hill…and in that moment we found paradise! There before us, the Santorini I remembered sparkled in all its glory…with our little ‘Kaleidescope’ cave house and its jacuzzi overlooking the crystal clear Aegean Sea just below us. Oia- and Santorini, does not disappoint…well certainly not at first sight.

Santorini…the name itself makes you travel in your mind…one of the most beautiful islands in the world…apparently devastated by a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago, forever shaping its rugged, wild and beautiful landscape.

Greece is comprised of a peninsula surrounded by thousands of islands. So what makes this island immortalised by poets, and painters such a magical experience? Is it the multi coloured cliffs that soar out of a sea drowned caldera…

…topped by clusters of whitewashed buildings clinging at dizzying heights and offering gasp-inducing views? Is it the perfect combination of white and blue tones…or the contrast of wild volcanic sculptures against sleek Cycladic lines. Is it its celebrated light and picture-perfect sunsets…

…or the narrow cobblestoned back streets filled with whitewashed courtyards and Cycladic-style balconies festooned with bougainvillea and little boutiques tempting you with unique jewellery, clothing and souvenirs …

…possibly the local wine and great food….perhaps all of the above and even more…

We stayed in Oia (pronounced EE-ah) at the northern tip of the island where basically, everywhere you go looks like a calendar shot…

…and where hoardes of tourists from the cruise ships that dock everyday crowd the streets so that you are walking shoulder to shoulder with strangers and there is pretty much no escape…

…except maybe into one of the many cafes and restaurants with breathtaking views of the blue domes, white houses and the blue ocean…

…or into the jacuzzi.

Tough choice😂…and we did both many times… but the cruise ship crowds really are too much.

On our first night, our host booked us a table in what, in his opinion was the best sunset restaurant. We headed off early, donned in our Camilla’s and stopped for a drink in another little sunset bar on the way.

While the girls enjoyed the view, I went ahead to find the restaurant and when I did I was a little worried that from the outside it didn’t look so great and seemed to overlook a car park. I went back to discuss our options and we decided that since we had a booking, we should just cut our losses and do the right thing. Thank goodness for our morals because it ended up being the most amazing place with the most amazing view- and we had the most amazing table! Arriving to a full restaurant, we were led to without a doubt, the best table in the house with people apparently wondering what celebrities it was reserved for lol.

Our first famed Santorini sunset did not disappoint even once the sun dipped beneath the horizon! Everyone claps at this moment, but then it turns into ‘blue hour’ and the island changes color again.

Such a lovely and memorable night full of laughter.

Despite the crowds, we still loved our few days here…our little cave house with its amazing breakfast spot…

…too much good food (lobster risotto anyone?)…wine…lots of laughter… jacuzzis… taking photos (Karen, you may have found your new profession) and posing for photos (work it Sue)…sunset chasing…walking the mess of curvy streets and staircases over and over…and did I say wine…more shopping than any of us planned (which is a problem as most of us already had issues with space/weight of our suitcases)…and generally appreciating the beauty of Gods creation and all the ‘pinch me’ moments.

So Athens only really happened as there was no other way for us to do our tour to Meteora. But as the first stop to our big adventure, we were still bubbling with excitement as we left our hotel for our first exploration.

We had chosen to stay in Plaka, in the heart of the center of Athens, in the shadow of the Acropolis and its ancient temples. With its village feel, narrow picturesque cobblestone streets lined with tiny shops selling gorgeous jewellery, clothes, shoes, shoes and more shoes and local ceramics…

it was the perfect place to start. So much for this not really being a shopping trip.

Even though it is very commercial, it was a wonderful to enjoy the lively atmosphere, wandering the alleyways chasing glimpses of the Acropolis between the neoclassical buildings…

…Byzantine churches (including the beautiful little Kapnikarea)…

…other ancient ruins and historic landmarks and souvenir shops.

Sidewalk cafes and family-run tavernas stay open until late and we found a perfect little traditional taverna under the grapevines to enjoy our first Greek meal. Perhaps not the best food but a wonderful atmosphere and we left completely content but also completely exhausted. And then got lost on the way home. Of course we did.

We did eventually make it home quite late, with our purchases and fell into bed leaving the curtains open for the most amazing view of the Acropolis, literally from our beds.

The magnificent Acropolis, visible from almost every part of the city, is the hub around which Athens still revolves. This temple city, built in the 5th century BC, serves as a daily reminder to Greeks of their heritage and the city’s many transformations. All over Athens, rooftops and balconies (ours included) angle toward the landmark, a block of milky marble on top of a steep-sided hill. While our time in Athens was short, we did have some opportunity to appreciate the Acropolis’ many moods, as the light shifts and the clouds cast their shifting shadows.

Fast forward a couple of days and we arrived back at the hotel to welcome our precious friend Annie with much excitement. While we had had an amazing time on our Meteora tour, we had missed her being with us. Our little foursome was now complete.

On the hotels recommendation, we all headed off to another traditional taverna…very touristy but also lots of fun…to eat some food, drink some wine, dance, laugh (a lot) and break some plates!

While it was not in our original plan, a short video sent by my brother Chris once again had us changing our itinerary for the upteenth time.

There’s a saying that goes- “it feels like you’re walking in the clouds”. Well Greece took that very literally. Meteora, (translated into English means “middle of the sky”, ‘suspended in the air’ or ‘in the heavens above’)- is one of the largest and most important complexes of Greek Orthodox monasteries in Greece and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And from the pictures I had seen, I was pretty excited about this place.

If from afar everything looked like a gathering of oddly shaped sandstone pillars, from where we were standing it looked like a magical world from a fairytale, complete with cute little miniature castles. Despite our beautiful clear blue skies, I could imagine with mist or cloud cover it really would feel like you were suspended somewhere between heaven and earth.

According to our tour guide, these huge rock pillars were formed by deposits of stone, sand and mud combined with the power of water, wind and earthquakes over millions of years (or something like that- I’m not very scientific).

Fascinating it is an understatement. Meteora is beyond fascination. Not only that spectacular view and raw natural beauty which takes your breath away, nor the spiritual experience some may have being there, but the feeling that there is more than meets the eye and that you’ve entered a totally different world.

Centuries back the only way to reach the top was through a system of ladders or ropes but in more recent years, stairs were carved into the rock making the monasteries more accessible- but no less amazing. Crossing the little bridges that now connect them to the surrounding area was like stepping through a gate between worlds.

Although nowadays there are only 6 functional monasteries due to dwindling numbers of people wanting to dedicate their lives in this way, nuns and monks do still live and work here in these architectural marvels perched atop the stone pillars.

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As we were on our only ‘organised’ tour with a stop in Delphi. Sorry history buffs, but this one was a bit of a yawn for me…I just can’t get excited about museums and ruins.

But the spectacular scenery more than made up for it.

We stopped in the mountain village of Arachova nestled picturesquely at the foot of the mountains in southern Greece. Sometimes referred to as the ‘winter Mykonos’, it was hard to imagine on our hot dry autumn day that this place is apparently the most cosmopolitan winter destination in Greece…a favourite for passionate ski lovers (and I thought Greece was all turquoise waters, bougainvillea and whitewashed buildings). What a surprisingly perfect place it was, to relax in a dreamy mountainous setting taking a leisurely walk through its narrow cobblestone streets and breathing in the refreshing mountain air.

We stopped in the most perfect little taverna with a gorgeous flower laden balcony that could only just fit the three of us. Overlooking the bell tower of the historical church of the Virgin Mary, we ate a simple but memorable lunch of the most garlicky Tzatziki ever made, fried local Formaela cheese, Greek salad and wine. Yamas!