Known as the island of colours thanks to its jewel coloured waters, volcanic rocks that paint the beaches red, pink and orange, and buildings painted in vivid primary tones, the horse-shoe shaped island of Milos floats serenely in the Aegean Sea. The island has a mythological landscape, uncrowded taverna-lined port towns and the bluest water in the Cyclades. What a change of pace from the overcrowded and touristy Santorini.
We arrive at our peaceful island accommodation …an old windmill…and definitely off the beaten track. This was the first accomodation we booked for this trip and we were all excited at the prospect of sleeping in a windmill…so unique and full of character.
It is sunset and we are immediately in awe of the, literally 360° view. Just wow!
So many times already in our few days since leaving home, have we been left speechless. It is also crazily windy…probably the only negative on this island, if you want to look for one.
As a contrast to Santorini, people come to Milos for its countless beaches and swimming spots, which are ready to compensate swimmers for the effort required in reaching them. Each has a unique allure and you can wake up wondering what the day will offer…all different colours and all different combinations of sand, stone and shell. The more remote and harder they are to reach, perhaps the greater the reward.
With limited time on the island we could only choose a few… and first on our agenda was possibly Greeces’most unique beach- the white rocky landscape of Sarakiniko, which forms a once in a lifetime encountered lunar landscape…and deserves its own little blog.
From here it is not far to Mandrakia, where on several recommendations we choose to eat rather than swim.
Here, I am excited to come upon a row of octopus hanging from a clothes line stretched across two poles outside the seaside taverna- like laundry drying in the sun.
It is an iconic image of Greek summer and I had sent photos like this to the girls in anticipation of our trip…particularly to trigger Sue, who is not a fan 😂.
I, on the other hand, love octopus and regularly order it when we dine at one of our favourite restaurants at home- Georges. It is the ultimate Aegean treat…an essential taste of summer at the shore…a quintessential Greek food and perfect seaside holiday meal. I was excited to try the sun baked tentacles seared on the chargrill.
Apparently when it’s fresh, octopus is very hard, so fishermen will beat it against the rocks several times- tradition requires at least 40 times- in order to tenderise it. After that, it can be prepared in as many ways as the imagination can conjure
Crispy and Smokey in the outside and soft, juicy and slightly chewy on the inside. The combination of smoke and sea- just how I like it… also tried it marinated in vinegar which makes it unbelievably tender.
We move onto Firopotomas with its colourful pebbled sand…
…and then to the volcanic Paleochori, which has cliffs of gold, purple, green, rose and white…
Volcanic heat rises up through part of the beach and many of the restaurants cook their lamb or fish in ovens buried in the geothermal sand. Sadly we were too full from our seafood lunch at Mandrakia and I am disappointed to not have the opportunity to try this local speciality. Instead I walk to the end of the beach for a swim…with difficulty…not used to the coarse sand mixed with small colourful pebbles which give the beach and the water a different outlook. Warm underwater springs can be felt at some places around the shore due to the volcanic activity .
On several recommendations, we take a boat cruise to Kleftiko which is only reachable by water. The yacht drifts in silence as we sun our legs wishing for the tan we see on so many around us.
It’s difficult to believe you are looking at something in nature. You sense the explosion that vaulted the cliffs from the sea…in their reds and yellows and whites like huge abstract canvasses…
…massive encrusted rocks with curves and ripples and holes and caves rising from the bluest water in the Cyclades. We anchor in Kleftiko, and we swim and snorkel in secluded rocky caves. I am once again at a loss as to how to describe the experience of swimming around huge rock formations jutting out of the crystalline turquoise waters. When the boat’s horn sounds a warning, I very reluctantly return.
We have another opportunity to dive from the boat at Gerontas beach which is lined in black volcanic sand. But the wind had picked up and not many chose to take advantage this time.
We take a walk up the hill to Plaka which is at the top of a large mountainous hill and offers breathtakingly beautiful views onto the Milos Gulf and the Aegean Sea below. With its narrow cobblestone back streets, whitewashed courtyards and Cycladic-style balconies festooned with bougainvillea…
…it is picture perfect and I leave the girls drinking a cocktail to wander it’s tiny alleyways and feed my photography addiction.
We then watch the magical sunset at the Virgin Mary of the Seas church
…before dinner in one of the many lively tavernas. Definitely a favourite little village with the most exquisite details everywhere you look and a fabulous last night on Milos.
and I think to myself what a wonderful world 