Italy’s “heel”

Honestly it doesn’t matter that Ive been to Italy several times- and for weeks at a time. I could come 50 times and barely scratch the surface of this amazing country and I know I will always be back. But I have never been to Puglia.

Commonly referred to as Italy’s “heel,” the region of Puglia is arguably the country’s most stunning landscape…and like a secret…an undiscovered spot in paradise…mostly untouched by international tourism.

Think: hundreds of kilometers of beautiful, jagged Mediterranean coastline with its ancient stone towers, hidden caves and beaches with clear turquoise waters…

…groves upon groves of ancient olive trees, and marvellous little cozy whitewashed towns carved into hillsides in tones of white and gold…

…with south Italian flair and the friendliest locals you’ll meet anywhere (mostly 😂)… rich in churches and palaces, hidden piazzas and winding alleyways, colourful markets and slow food trattorias serving some of the most incredible seafood, pasta, and wine in the world — and the only thing better than the region’s food and wine is the people who make it. Le dolce vita…living the true Italian lifestyle.

We fly into Brindisi and hire a car for the next 12 days. It is a big VW beast which I am conscious will make life difficult in the tiny alleyways of many of the towns we will visit- but necessary with 4 women and their suitcases plus any shopping we have already accumulated.

We punch Roca Vecchia into Google maps…with a full tank of fuel and sunshine creeping above the hills in front of us. We set off on the beginning of our 12 day road-trip from Puglia to Tuscany, ready for adventure.

Our first stop is in the small town of Roca, where we visit a pretty insane looking grotto called Grotto della Poesia or the Cave of Poets.

Legend has it that once upon a time there was a beautiful princess who loved to swim in the clear water of the cave, so, many poets came to Roca to dedicate their poems to her. I dont know about any beautiful princess but this granny definitely thinks that the grotto is worthy of poetry.

Literally a 100- ft wide natural sinkhole/swimming pool at the seas edge surrounded by limestone cliffs from which the daring jump into the cool clear turquoise waters below. While I’m certainly no adrenaline junkie and have a distinct fear of heights, it did look like an opportunity not to be missed. It was one of those things that looks easy but feels precariously high when you are standing on the edge…but the lure of those waters below were just too tempting. We jumped…

…and then explored the caves with the most unbelievable turquoise coloured water, it almost looked luminous…and swam under an archway into the Adriatic Sea. An exhilarating experience!

We then headed for our next stop where we would spend our first night in Puglia. Otranto is right on the Adriatic sea, gazing out across the strait towards the Balkans and Greece and has a mix of history, architecture, views, sea-front restaurants and a white sandy beach. The imposing castle, thick perimeter walls and robust towers (built after the town was liberated from the Turks in the late 15th century) dominate much of the town, giving way to a small port full of beautiful boats and a series of sea-front promenades with many restaurants and bars. We stay in the old town…typically bustling and whitewashed, where beautiful restaurants and shops hide down white cobblestone alleyways.

There are sweeping views of the sparkling turquoise waters from the top of the citadels walls and our gorgeous hotel overlooks the port. We immediately feel the Puglian vibe…quiet…authentic perhaps…not yet found by masses of tourists…small for sure, but extremely picturesque. We briefly wander the streets… the gleaming white jumble of houses, churches and charming piazzas spread over the clifftop…cafes, restaurants and little stores and although there were a few people roaming around, it was still pretty empty compared to Greece.

We enjoy a sunset drink in a bar on one of the castle towers and then, on recommendation we have dinner in a lovely little family restaurant run by the most wonderful people.

Meandering through the little boutiques after dinner, I excitedly notice a woman carrying an ‘Antica Sartoria’ shopping bag- a gorgeous and unique label I recognised from shopping in Positano a few years ago. I had hoped to find one of these boutiques on this trip as I knew we would all enjoy the experience…white lace, frills, embroidery, crochet, tassels and other embellishments. We were all in big trouble…pretty much trying on the whole store and shopping up a storm. A blessed ending to another perfect day.