and I think to myself what a wonderful world

After a lovely fresh fruit and yoghurt breaky at our BnB we headed north to the Tamar Valley in anticipation of beautiful scenery and delicious food and wine that the area is world renowned for. The rolling green hills of the valley and its rich agricultural land attracts many growers and producers including makers of artisanal cheeses, ciders, beers, truffles, walnuts, cherry delicacies and more, all committed to their craft- a providore’s dream. And we weren’t disappointed.

Our first stop was the Tamar Islands wetlands- a unique wetland ecosystem of mudflats gouged by tidal rivulets, vast lagoons teeming with wildlife and and tiny pockets of gnarled forest on the little islands that dot the landscape. Abundant with plant and animal life, the wetlands are a magnificent Tasmanian landscape and a haven for various birds, mammals, reptiles (snakes), frogs and fish. Along the boardwalk we wandered, flanked by tall native Tasmanian grass species… weaving through the grasses and over footbridges that reveal Kanamaluka/River Tamar in all its glory.

After a good few thousand steps it was time for wine (isn’t it always?). The Tamar Valley has been named one of the world’s top 10 wine routes and wineries line each side of the River Tamar on it’s journey to the sea. Dozens of magnificent little wineries (and gin distilleries- for the gin lovers in our group) hide along the valley’s rolling banks, offering gorgeous panoramic views and just waiting for us to pull up and have a taste of their delicious vintages and breathe in the essence of the Tamar. Tamar Ridge sparkling rose… yes please! I’m taking you home!

Stopped for a quick selfie at Brady’s lookout- once a hideout for the infamous Bushranger.

The views were gorgeous up and down the Tamar River with the vista extending over 120kms to Ben Lomond massif in the south and almost all the way to the coast and the Bass Strait to the north. Viewing platforms are set right on the cliffs edge with the escarpment falling away to the river below.

Headed over the Batman bridge and on to the little seaside town of Bridport on the recommendation of friends, to the Bridport Distillery for lunch of pizza, a delicious grazing platter and to die for date and prosciutto bruschetta- and more wine/gin.

Walked down to the beach briefly but it was cold and extremely windy so we quickly headed to our last stop for the day.

Over some pretty gravelly, pot-holed narrow back roads we made our way to Bridgestowe Lavender Farm where we (perhaps unrealistically) hoped there may be some flowers even though we knew it was not lavender flowering season.

Beyond a few pots, there were none! Oh well, it was worth a try- so we settled for a lavender latte and ice cream. No dinner for us tonight!

Once again, we’ve cleared our schedules and packed our bags (definitely the most difficult part with only carryon size suitcases allowed), because we’re going on another girls’ road trip… not to any exotic locations this time, but to the beautiful island of Tasmania. Well- it is sort of ‘over seas’… and we’re excited! We’ve lost one of our original 4 who is touring exotic places overseas right now, but have gained a new member to complete our foursome.

Tasmania is a place of beauty and isolation, where the landscape is sculpted by nature. With some of the most magnificent untouched wilderness, from potentially snow-dusted mountain peaks to pristine coastlines with iconic white-sand beaches, majestic waterfalls and glacial lakes… Tassie has some of the most beautiful natural attractions in the world. As a nature lover and photo taking addict, I have no doubt I will be in my element!

A road trip will allow us to experience much of this diverse scenery as we basically ‘lap’ the island… driving through charming towns, pretty farmlands, effervescent vineyards and exploring ancient World Heritage-listed wilderness and landmarks.

We hope to see plenty of wildlife and to indulge in delicious artisan produce and world class wine on an epic road trip around Australia’s island state. The temperatures are still expected to be quite cold and weather at this stage, not looking promising- so there may be more wine tasting than originally planned as we try to escape the rain. Doesn’t sound like too much of a problem!!!!

Join us as we celebrate life after a couple of pretty crappy years- relaxing, unwinding and adventuring (and drinking a few Chardonnays) as we explore a small part of our wonderful world

It was my birthday and our plan right from the beginning was to go paragliding today. But we had tried to book with no luck… so instead I had a big day planned in Interlaken.

Our day started like most with a discussion of what to wear… not from a fashion aspect… more from a comfort and temperature point of view. Karen announces that from her weather app it was not going to be that cold so she didn’t think she would take her jacket. Sue and I looked at each other obviously thinking she had gone mad… and convinced her to take it (you know… better safe than sorry). More on this later…

We headed down the tram… cable car… and train to reach Interlaken… which we had seen for all of 5 minutes on the day of our arrival when we went up to the spectacular (and freezing) Harder Klum. But Interlaken is so much more than that… in fact it is so ridiculously beautiful that you cant help but love it- gorgeous lakes, perfect mountains, stunning sceneries and cute towns everywhere you look. Interlaken actually means ‘between lakes’ as it straddles the glacier-fed lakes Thun and Brienz and it’s capped by the pearly white peaks of Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau,

We hopped on the ferry headed for Iseltwald where we would begin a walk around part of the stunning lake Brienz. We walked upstairs and grabbed a seat and commented how upmarket the ferries were… only to be kicked out a few minutes later when the conductor asked for our tickets and told us we were not supposed to be in first class 😂.

The colour of the lake is simply amazing…

displaying beautiful turquoise and emerald hues, colors often associated with shallow tropical waters. This results from tiny particles of glacial sediment known as “rock flour” that produce an extraordinary visual effect only enhanced by the cleanliness of the lake.

The trail from Iseltwald to Giessbach is rightly regarded as one of Switzerland’s most beautiful lakeside walks. This trail, which hugs the bank of the glittering, blue Lake surrounded by sheer mountain slopes…

takes you through gnarled, fairy-tale mountain forests…

with beautiful ferns, mushrooms and trees lining the path… and moss everywhere!

I am obsessed with moss… it makes everything feel so alive with the intensity of its green green colour.

We are once again overcome with the beauty of Gods creation and drink in the atmospheric scenery.

We arrive in Guessbach and walk up a steep path with amazing views at all different levels of the beautiful waterfall.

We arrive at the gorgeous Art Nouveau Giessbach hotel…

…with its stunning views of lake Brienz and its many mountains… and the waterfall. Here we celebrate my birthday in style…

…very quickly as we are on a tight schedule… and we may be the only people to ever have part of their meal ‘take-away’ from this posh hotel 😂. But it was the only way we could make the funicular taking us down to the ferry, which only goes every two hours.

We continue onto the homely village of Brienz which offers enticing alleyways, Swiss chalets adorned with flowers and a lakeside promenade. From here we had the unique experience of taking the old railway’s authentic alpine steam train to the summit of Rothorn at an altitude of 2244m. It is a very steep ascent and we kept thinking about ‘the little engine that could’ as it slowly chugged it’s way up the spectacular mountain.

The scenery along the way is extraordinary; the train winds its way up the mountain through a world of pristine emerald fields and picturesque forests all with a back drop of snow-capped Alps.

I was in the carriage… thankful that the windows completely open… wide-eyed and terrified I would miss a cow in a field, a clichéd mountain village, or a distant hiker waving to the engine driver. It was all indescribably beautiful.

Once the mid station has been reached, the forests make way for alpine meadows, rocks and sharp ridges.

At the top there are stunning views- one of the most beautiful places in Interlaken… although when we arrived, we couldn’t see it. There was a complete white out and once again, it was freaking freezing.

Back to Karen thinking she wouldn’t need a jacket…..😂

We went inside the restaurant at the top to escape the cold and the next minute, the clouds parted to give us breath taking views of central Switzerland, Lake Brienz and the Bernese alps

How do you compare extraordinary beauty with extraordinary beauty…. the Jungfrau train journey with this one? It is difficult to keep trying to find greater and greater superlatives to describe the magnificence of what we have seen and felt. But this one was very special… off the tourist track and away from any crowds. Untouched wilderness… and we breathe it in…. as Sues hair is nearly blown away by the freezing winds.

We catch the train home and seat ourselves in some very comfortable seats… only to be told once again that we were is first class while only being second class citizens 😂

Next morning we awake to a typical mountain morning where the weather can change literally every few minutes. We are booked in to paraglide at 1.30 and it’s touch and go whether it will happen…. rain is expected… and I’m not sure if I will be disappointed or relieved if it gets cancelled. We go walking around our gorgeous little town to pass some time and ease our nerves while we wait.

I am no adrenaline junkie And I am terrified of heights. Even watching clips of people doing things that involve heights makes me dizzy. And despite trying to overcome this fear by doing crazy things like zip lining in the Peruvian Andes (thanks Alex for that terrifying experience 😂) nothing has changed. I’m also an anxious flyer despite the many flights I have taken in my lifetime. So all this considered, Im not sure how we decided the perfect activity to celebrate life on my birthday was to go paragliding over the Swiss alps. We all feel great trepidation.

But the whiteout and rain clears leaving perfect conditions… so we are on. Feel the fear and do it anyway!!! We take a deep breath, put our best foot forward, a few steps together down the hill with our tandem instructors and we soar high up into the sky!

Tandem paragliding is the ultimate experience if you want to experience the pure weightlessness of flying combined with breathtaking scenery and the awe-inspiring natural beauty of the Lauterbrunnen valley, which I had walked through a couple of days ago. The countless waterfalls, beautiful views of the car-free resorts of Wengen, Gimmelwald and Mürren, with glimpses of the James Bond Mountain; the Schilthorn and framed by the extensive awe-inspiring Jungfrau mountain range.

We flew for about 20 minutes… and I will say that I experienced some anxiety… but mostly exhilaration. And the trained instructors were amazing! This is probably the most incredible thing we have ever done.

We decide to celebrate with a couple of drinks and a very late lunch (we didn’t want food in our tummies before our jump…just in case). We catch two cable cars from Murren via Birg to reach the Schilthorn, which at 2960m… known as James Bond mountain because it was made famous when it was featured as the location for the 1969 James Bond movie, “On her Majesty’s service”. We sit in the revolving restaurant used in many of the dramatic scenes of the early James Bond movie. The outdoor viewing platform is the main reason to visit- on a clear day you have views as far as Mont Blanc and the Black Forest, and an unrivalled view of snow-capped mountains wherever you look. This is known as the Swiss Skyline…. but it is not a clear day and instead we have a complete whiteout.

The clouds do momentarily part and then the mountains disappear again.

… but we don’t care. We have fun outside with some silly pictures and a snow ball fight.

It starts to snow… a perfect ending to a perfect holiday

From Locarno we headed into the ‘real’ Switzerland… none of this Mediterranean climate stuff. We had travelled all this way with a suitcase half full of winter clothes and we didn’t want it to be for nothing (as much as I dislike the cold).

We catch the scenic Centovalli train for an unhurried journey climbing up through the alps, through the “Hundred Valleys” and down to Domodosola (strangely backtracking into Italy)… with great views of the mountains… breathtaking gorges with little waterfalls…spectacular bridges…green valleys… delightful villages time forgot…and ramshackle little vineyards.

We swap trains and head back to Switzerland on an equally scenic trip arriving in Interlaken well ahead of our original schedule.

As we have made good time we decide to leave our luggage at the train station (not nearly as simple as it sounds) and head for the Harder Klum which I had heard had magnificent views over the area.

It takes just eight minutes to travel by funicular from Interlaken to the Harder Kulm, Interlaken’s home mountain, where the restaurant, at 1322 metres above sea level, is reminiscent of a small castle. .. and has an amazing suspended viewing platform “the two lakes bridge” with magnificent views of the ‘big three’- the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau as well as over Interlaken. It starts to rain and the cold is a bit of a shock to our system at only about 4°…so we snap a few quick photos…

…(quick being the operative word as Sue is freaking out about the movement of the suspended platform)…

…and head inside for our introduction to traditional Swiss cuisine with a cheese fondue and hot chocolate.

Cant say we were big fans of the fondue but chocolate with cream is always a winner for me.

We catch another train, a cable car and a tram (the first of many spectacular rides, although the weather is certainly not ideal)…

… and finally arrive in Murren to even colder temperatures and rain. This is not what we wanted with all our planned activities being outdoor and needing fine (if cold) weather… although it is what we expected as we had been watching the weather closely and praying that God would come through again as he had continually throughout our travels. We drag our suitcases through the rain and are thankful when we arrive st our hotel, where we are staying for the next four nights. It literally sits right on the cliff face…

with the most spectacular view… we are in awe!

Despite the miserable conditions, Karen is practically wetting herself because there is snow on the mountaintops…

and we can see it from our room. And then we wake the next morning to a winter wonderland …with fresh snow all around us… and beautiful clear skies. Just wow! We could not have asked for more.

Murren, Switzerland looks like another one of those fairy tale villages from a Disney movie… you sort of expect to see Heidi walking down the street. It is the essence of Switzerland, that is for sure. The scenery in this part of Switzerland is stunning in any season…

but we have the best of both worlds with the green green valleys and flowers everywhere…and snow.

We head out early rugged up with all our layers, heading to the ‘top of europe’ which sits impressively at 11,371 feet, or 3,466 metres and is the highest railway station in Europe. Visiting the Jungfraujoch is a once in a lifetime experience where you can walk in the snow all year around and enjoy an up-close view of the most famous peaks of the region. We jostled huge crowds as this is one of the most popular attractions in the region especially on days like this when everyone wants to be up there to soak in the clear panoramic views. And the views are spectacular even on the journey… the fresh snow glistens like crystals in the sunlight.

The Jungfraujoch is a glacier “saddle” connecting the other two mountains next to the Eiger- Jungfrau and Mönch. And lucky for us, someone built a train line all the way up as I don’t think we would be trekking it! .Once you arrive, you are greeted by a jaw-dropping vista of the surrounding mountains …

…and Europe’s longest glacier- the Aletsch… stretching 23km. This alone makes it worth the trip.But it was freaking freezing -7° and windy…so only staying long enough to feed our photography addiction…

…we head back down the valley to Lauterbrunnen.

Another picture-perfect village, Lauterbrunnen is nestled deep in one of the most impressive trough valleys in the Alps, between gigantic rock faces and snow-capped mountain peaks that rise high above the green meadows … perhaps the prettiest village of all.

Standing in the middle of the village feels like entering the pages of a fairy tale.

Surrounding mountain peaks hide the valley away from the world. Laid-back and full of chalet-style lodging… and the now expected stunning floral displays, the village is backed by the roaring 300m high Staubbach falls, which is one of the highest free-falling waterfalls in Europe.

Dozens of waterfalls flow liberally down cliff faces in every direction. And a single white church with a pointy steeple sits on the banks of a gushing milky-blue river. Complete with cows walking down the main street, cowbells ringing.

Simply out-of-this-world perfect!

After a hot soup lunch, I leave the girls to shop and explore the town further while I go for a walk through the stunning valley, which is one kilometer in width and it’s tucked between the dramatic vertical rock walls and mountains. In German, Lauterbrunnen means: “Many Springs” or more accurately: “Loud Springs”, and the name is very appropriate. This little valley has no less than 72 waterfalls, some of which are several hundred meters high….although many of them were at a trickle being the end of summer. Anywhere you go in Lauterbrunnen you always hear the hypnotizing sound of water rushing down the rocks. The air is moist, but fresh and crisp like after a heavy rainfall and not nearly as cold as the Jungfrau. Perfect trekking weather.

My walk from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg was just glorious… down the entire Lauterbrunnen Valley with it’s many waterfalls and the constant tinkling of cow bells. I stopped off at Trummelbach falls which run through the centre of the mountain.

I have a love affair with waterfalls. My ex used to say he didn’t understand the attraction- “it’s just water falling over rocks”. But there is just something about their grace, beauty and absolute simplicity…across the world…wherever water flows and falls to whirl and shimmer and ripple… I will be there if possible.

And standing in front of a powerful waterfall like Trummelbach has a way of making you feel alive…. and a little bit terrified. The deafening roar of the falls, the strong breeze from the crashing water, and the ice cold mist hitiing your face makes it such an exhilarating sensory experience. These falls are not pretty… but they are awesome!

The Trummelbach alone drains the mighty glacier defiles of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau and carries 20,200 tons of Boulder detritus per year. It’s drainage area is 24km2 , half of it covered by snow and glaciers. Up to 20,000 litres per second which can be seen cascading, splashing and pounding down the mountain through tunnels and crevices and over waterfalls…which kind of makes the mountain shudder… just like me. It sounds like thunder. Although there are many viewing platforms, it is pretty impossible to photograph.

I continue my walk from the falls to Stechelberg village watching paraglider after paraglider float down from above and touch down in the meadows. Our plan was to be among them (for my birthday) but due to the extraordinary weather, they are booked out. We are still hoping….

And this is my view on my way home…

We cross into Switzerland and immediately notice the difference in the trains- clean, fast, efficient and not hot and stuffy. The rest of our travels will be in comfort.

We arrive in Locarno with its palm trees and much hyped 2300 hours of sunshine a year… to rain and gloomy skies… but we have been upgraded to a 3 bedroom penthouse in our little hotel, with an amazing view of the lake, so we are all pretty happy despite the weather.

Locarno is Switzerland’s lowest-altitude town, and has a Mediterranean climate… just not today. It also had a promenade strung along its mountain facing lakefront and botanical gardens bristling with subtropical flowers and foliage. Beyond the lake, there’s a pretty Renaissance old town to roam, which fans out from the Piazza Grande. We didn’t really have much time for that as I wanted to hop on a bus as soon as possible and head for the Verzasca valley and specifically Lavertezzo. The bus travels up extremely narrow roads with many hairpin bends as if travelling on a highway- no worries mate! Karen is thankful that she is no longer driving.

The Verzasca Valley is known for its gorgeous little rustic stone towns which dot the landscape… all so cute …even the roofs are made of stone and pretty flower boxes everywhere.

The flowers really thrive here, which I love… they look really happy and healthy and don’t look like they’re thirsty all the time like they would be at home. It’s also known for the pristine natural landscape through which flows clear turquoise/emerald water. Verzasca literally means “green water,” which proves that not only is it incredibly clean, but it’s always been that way.

It’s not food colouring, although it looks like it could be…it’s not a chemical reaction, and it’s not algae. It’s just mother nature at her absolute finest. Minerals from the rocks dissolve into the water over time and give it a greenish appearance, and without any pollution, it really takes on a vibrant and luminescent glow. It is just so amazing it’s hard to believe it’s real.

So, the town we have come to visit is Lavertezzo… which may just be the most gorgeous place in Switzerland, in my opinion (not that I’ve seen many 😂) but I just can’t really imagine beating this. Here, the emerald river flows over perfectly smoothed colourful rocks…

…carving out surprising shapes and hidden natural pools.

Like with most of the destinations I had added to our itinerary, I had seen photos of this amazing place on social media and imagined that they were likely heavily edited. Then I saw it for myself and realised that no, this is probably some of the clearest, cleanest water on earth… and perhaps some of the bluest.. or is it greenest? And maybe coldest 😂- so the swimming was definitely out! Cold water and me don’t really mix.

If you enjoy experiencing a beautiful, pristine alpine river… waterfalls too numerous to count … walking where sheep likely outnumber people… and a charming stone village full of character- this place is heaven.

Particularly renowned is a beautiful and practical 400 year old medieval stone bridge. The Ponte del Salti (‘bridge of jumps’- thanks to brave adventurists who jump down into the green waters below) is a double arched stone structure that allowed foot traffic, carts and small animals to cross the otherwise impassable river.

The stone arches float with patient tranquillity above the serene emerald pools below… although I can imagine the raging serpent it would become from the snow melt from the Lepontine Alps in the springtime… apparently creating dozens of waterfalls. We stand on the bridge and can feel the blue-green river writhing through the rocky gorge, past the stone village. The view is sensational.

I climb down and clamber over the rocks below to take a picture of the girls on the bridge.

I explore the amazing striped and colourful rocks of the riverbed which are polished by the magical jade green waters. The forest beyond the rocks pulsates with life… blanketed in green moss… hidden and mysterious. Here there is some kind of magical power that provides relaxation and rejuvenation.

We cross the main town bridge for the most spectacular view of the town and some of the cascades that run all year long.

We take so many photos it is ridiculous…

…and Karen’s dreams come true again as I spot a deer just beyond the terrace where we are having a little drink.

It is raining a misty rain but it actually creates an even more magical ambience

We have swapped the stress of our hire car for the stress of the notoriously unreliable Italian trains and are just praying that we make some very tight connections. Each train is a little late which works well for us as we lug our suitcases through crowds… up and down stairs when there is no lift. Our final leg from Milan to Bellano is supposed to take an hour…but nearly three hours later…hot and bothered due to unseasonably warm temperatures and no air on the trains (and me sitting the whole time on the suitcases as there was nowhere to put them)… we do finally arrive.

I guess it is reasonable to expect on a trip like this, where we have stayed in so many fantastic places despite our pretty tight budget that we would end up with a dud somewhere. Well this was it! We felt like we had arrived in the slum…if there is such a thing on Lake Como. My disappointment was palpable as I had envisaged our lovely room with lake views in Varenna… and was really looking forward to it. Well…we did have lake views…if you stuck your head out the bathroom window. Not sure how we got it so wrong…but anyway…we only had to sleep in our slum and would spend the rest of our time exploring the beautiful villages of the lake.

Lake Como sits at the top of many bucket lists for travellers visiting Italy. A popular retreat for the rich and famous since ancient Romans fled Milan’s summer heat to cool off in the villas along its steep shores… this Y shaped lake continues to exert a powerful pull on imaginations thanks to the historic private waterfront villas, stunning gardens, exquisite, sleepy villages and resorts lining its shores, not to mention the gorgeous views of the mountains. And of course, as it is the vacation homeland for the dreamy George Clooney…

Postcards of Lake Como usually feature brilliant, sunny views of the mountain villages on beautiful summer days… and we were blessed with stunningly beautiful weather for our short stay here (the last time I visited it had been grey, gloomy and raining).

As we are so late arriving there is little time to explore…. and very little to explore in our little village. At least there are no crowds (why would there be 😂). Its most famous attraction is the naturally formed Orrido di Torrente Pioverna, a plunging, 15 million-year-old ravine formed by erosion. You can get a great look at the gorge thanks to viewing bridges that allow you to take great photos of the caves and the sparkling blue water inside the ravine. This may have been impressive if we hadn’t had only a few days ago visited the amazing Vintgar gorge in Slovenia which was so so spectacular.

A we find a half reasonable little bar on the waterfront to have an aperitif…

…dinner at a recommended restaurant that felt like grandmas house…and an early night. Nothing to keep us up here…except maybe the constant traffic noise.

We leave our slum apartment, funnily enough called ‘Fall in love with lake Como’ to do exactly that. We head off early to avoid the crowds… to Bellagio, located at the northern tip of the triangular landmass that divides the lake into two branches.

This village is widely considered to be amongst the most beautiful towns in Europe… with its unbeatable panoramic views and flower lined streets, dark cypress groves and rhododendron-filled gardens, beautiful lanterns, bright shutters and quaint little balconies…

Bellagio is undoubtedly the most famous town on Lake Como, which of course also means it is the busiest.

Still it is definitely worth visiting to indulging in Old World elegance, shopping in the little shops facing the water and on its cobblestoned alleyways and maze of steep stone staircases. We have a wonderful lunch under the vines at one of the many waterfront cafes.

We then hop in a ferry to Menaggio. On a promontory, with a busy little port, elegant hotels and many flowered parks, Menaggio, like most popular towns on the lake, has a promenade along the lakeside, a main square full of cafes and a small historic centre to explore.

It is dominated by the bell tower of the 17th century church of Santo Stefano, located in the centre of the populated area at the end of Via Calvi, pulsating heart of the historic area.

We had a quick wander through, the girls did some shopping and then we were off again.

We arrive in Varenna… where I originally thought we were staying and it immediately steals my heart.

What makes you love a place…when we have been to so many amazing places? I guess it’s the same thing that makes us love a person…a special charm… I guess it varies for everyone. Varenna possesses whatever it is in abundance. From the moment we arrived in the village it wrapps us in its sun drenched embrace. I fell in love…and sadness that we are not actually staying.

Spilling down a steep hill on the eastern shore of Lake Como, Varenna is traditionally a fishing village. Featuring mesmerizing terraced gardens and brightly-colored fishermen’s houses and villas that sit close to each other on the cafe-filled waterfront lined by a scenic flowered boardwalk… …providing a dreamy backdrop for a passeggiata. Rustic and quaint, it is both romantic and peaceful.

In truth there is probably not much to do here except admire its waterfront beauty and laid back charm- perfectly capturing the essence of dolce far niente (SFA). We enjoy some gelato…

…and wander aimlessly exploring the steep cobblestone alleyways… clicking away as everywhere we look is picture perfect. We find a little eaterie and enjoy an aperitif (or two) while taking in the views of its breath taking surrounds. We stay for pizza… what else do you eat on your last night in Italy… and watch the sun dip behind the mountains as the sky turns to flames with a glass of wine in hand.

Farewell Italy. Ti amo! I shall return.

We leave Bled early on our long drive back into Italy’s Dolomites. We cross the border and keep commenting how much it looks like Austria. Wait a minute…it is Austria! Google maps has taken us a different route to what I would have expected- and we are in Austria. Unexpected new country travel tick for you Karen 😂. We drive through the beautiful Austrian countryside for several hours- picture perfect vivid green hills, tiny little chocolate box towns, hilltop castles, cows (it’s been a long time since we’ve seen those) and steeples of the cutest little churches everywhere you look.

And flowers…everywhere…picture perfect! Very rural… the smell of fresh animal dung was heavy in the air… and then we realised we were driving behind a poo truck 😂💩

The olive trees that covered the southern part of our trip are long gone but the hills are still covered in vines in this country where wine flows freely everywhere.

As our route is not what we expected, we decide to detour to one of our destinations planned for tomorrow which is now pretty much on our way.

One of the most beautiful lakes in northern Italy, known as the pearl of the Dolomites, surrounded by an imposing backdrop, Lake Braies reflects colours in all shades from emerald green to turquoise blue and is so clear you can mirror yourself.

We had planned to come early tomorrow to beat the tourists and get that perfect mountain reflection that you see in the pictures…but we arrived way too late to crowds of tourists (well not crowds compared to Florence or Venice but still more than we would have liked). We wander to the boathouse where we are rewarded with incredible views of the old fashion timber row-boats, clear waters and breath-taking mountains…

…and if that is not enough, there is a tiny storybook chapel complete with horse stable.

I wander around the lake….

This is our first taste of the mighty Dolomites which some would say are the most visually stunning mountains anywhere… with its dramatic rock spires and clusters of scraggy outcrops…flames frozen in stone…above a mass of pine forests. Despite being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is a relatively unknown portion of Italy, to people outside this region… the road less travelled…which I love. It is just 200km from Venice, but seems worlds apart from the Italy we have so far experienced. German is the common language rather than Italian while the alpine landscape makes the area look like a scene from neighbouring Austria or even Switzerland. But you can’t argue with amazing food, amazing wine, amazing people and spectacular behold-the-majesty-of-nature-and-weep scenery. Perhaps no country nails this combo quite as effectively as this part of Italy.

As a nervous driver even at home, I have opted out of the driving side of this trip with the others girls taking up that slack (I have other skills to contribute…driving is just not one of them!) Karen drives to our destination on the narrow winding mountainous roads with steep drop offs to the valleys below…nearly in tears of tension. I am a panicky wreck virtually leaning into her lap so as not to ‘fall off the edge’. I cannot even look at the stunning vistas we are passing without having a panic attack. Sue just laughs from the back seat and takes a picture

We arrive safely in the flower filled village of Ortisei… picturesquely situated amidst the soaring peaks of the Dolomites. It looks back to an ancient trading activity and a rich history. For more than 2 centuries, this village is considered as the international centre of wood carving. There is a lively pedestrian zone in the village centre with many shops and bars and restaurants or should be.

Travel is often unpredictable, especially with weather. And while we have been blessed to have the most amazing warm and sunny conditions for most of our travelling, we are now in a mountain environment where conditions vary, literally minute by minute.

We take one of the three major cable cars in the village (Seceda) and go up Early to enjoy the view of the Odle mountains- inarguably the most famous range of the Dolomites… sandwiched between the Val de Funes and Val Gardena in the Puez-Odle national Park. A glorious view of razor sharp peaks of Torri di Fermeda awaits the moment you step off the cable car…. breathtaking! Or should be. Our view was one of grey cloud and very minimal visibility! So minimal in fact, that at times we couldn’t actually see anything much beyond the station building and adjacent restaurant. But we waited patiently and the clouds did lift enough for us to get a view of what we came to see.

While the Dolomites actually cover a large swathe of Italy’s north, the most iconic image that people have of this mountain range is actually found in the village of Santa Magdalena. An idyllic cluster of old timber houses gravitating around the most photographed church in the Dolomites and nestled amidst lush green alpine meadows of the Val di Funes. This is exactly the picture we were looking for…

…but disappointingly didn’t find. We did find the church…where even the cemetery was extraordinarily pretty.

But no one seemed to know where the viewpoint was…quite a few tourists were also wandering around looking for it. We were very short on time and gave up but ended up speaking to a group of young Germans who said that they had hiked up and found it but due to all the low cloud today, the mountains just weren’t coming out to play. I remember being in Tanzania and passing the majestic Mt Kilimanjaro several times…and never one being able to see it. All part of the unpredictability of travel.

The small mountain hamlet in the shadow of the Idle Peaks is so pristine you almost you almost expect a bunch of little wooded figurines to start singing. It is impossibly scenic with magnificent panoramas over the surrounding peaks… and once again, overflowing with colourful blooms on every surface possible.

We did find the church of St Johann which stands out in the imposing mountain landscape and begs to be photographed.

Time was short as we didn’t want to be driving the winding mountain roads in the dark…and we jade one more stop to make.

I was excited to visit Lago di Carezza as anything known as the ‘rainbow lake’ would definitely be on my radar. Legend has it that the lake was home to a beautiful water nymph, who captured the heart of a wizard called Masare. He was advised to dress up in jewels and throw a rainbow into a lake in an impressive act of seduction. However, he forgot to dress up and of course, she recognised him and disappeared to the bottom of the lake never to be seen again. The wizard was overwhelmed by anger and threw the rainbow into the lake, creating the layer of colours and the Rainbow Lake. The surreal colours set against the mountain background will get even the most cynical wondering if the tale could be true. And if not…I love a good mythology tale anyway.

It is a small lake with a reflection of the mountains and the unique rainbow colours seem totally unreal… layers of acqua, turquoise, emerald and even lime green…. hypnotising…photos cannot possibly do it justice. Breath-taking! I’ve seen many beautiful lakes in my travels but this one was definitely my favourite.

Lake Bled is every bit as lovely as all the pictures you have seen…with its emerald green lake, picture-postcard gothic church nestled on an tiny islet at its centre, a medieval castle looming above from its rocky perch with amazing views over the lake and some of the highest peaks of the Julian Alps as backdrops… it’s a fairytale setting…even in the rain (again…how many times have I said that on this trip????).

Our BnB is like ‘grandmas house’ and has the most spectacular view over the island and, of course, a room with a view is always a good idea!

The weather has really changed in the last few days from sunny and 30ish° to rainy and cool and we can definitely feel the autumn crispness in the air. And there is mist… which Sue is very excited about…that really just adds to the magical atmosphere.

Everywhere we see massive woodpiles (even they are decorated with flowers)- a sign of the long cold winter not too far away.

Karen makes us a fire and our little house is toasty warm….

…maybe too warm and I struggle to sleep.

I rise early to watch the sunrise…

…and take in the crisp mountain air, the forest, mountains and gorgeous view of the island with a brisk 6 km long trail around the lakes edge… well it was supposed to be brisk but with stopping every few metres to take photos…perhaps a long leisurely stroll is more to the point.

We take a drive to Vintgar Gorge (also called Bled Gorge), carved through the vertical rocks by the Radovna River which has the most amazing unbelievably turquoise-green colour…I’m not sure I’ve quite seen anything like it.

The trail takes us over wooden bridges and galleries for 1.6km. The water is not only vivid turquoise, but also extremely clear and see through- every branch and pebble is perfectly visible. It squeezes through rocks and cascades creating a few spectacular waterfalls and crystal-clear pools along the way and ends with a beautiful stone bridge overlooking the mighty Sum Falls. The whole scenery looks as if it was copied from a fantasy film and we are in awe of the beauty of Gods creation which touches us deeply. We walk mostly in silence breathing it in.

We return to our lake for lunch and decide to go to a cute little restaurant we noticed yesterday but couldn’t find in the dark last night.

After not being able to find parking anywhere, we drive back home, leave the car and walk. Overlooking the beautiful lake and island we indulge in one of the best meals we have ever eaten…salmon with prawn ravioli, saffron butter and champagne foam…

…fresh seafood risotto…and of course, the inevitable chilled dry white. Even Sue is acquiring a taste for it as sweeter wines are hard to come by in this part of the world…and we sit for ages just soaking in all up.

So good…we decide to return later for dinner.

As we have already walked nearly half way around the lake circuit, we continue on stopping again for dessert/afternoon tea to enjoy a local specialty, unique to the area…officially called Cremeschnitte but affectionally known as bled cream cake… where it was originally made. Just yum!

Now we really need to get those steps up and we finish the circuit (second time today for me).

Sadly there is just not enough time here. Traditional wooded boats- pietnas- have been taking visitors to the island in the middle of the lake for centuries…and we had planned to be among them. These boats are operated by standing rowers known as pietnars. After landing, guests climb 99 stone steps to reach the Assumption of Mary church. On the island, which is the subject of legendary tales, listen to the church bells and ring it yourself. Legend has it that this will make your wishes come true. We also never made it to Bled castle which towers over the lake on a cliff. But my biggest disappointment was to not have made it up to Maja Osojnica. If you’ve ever seen breath taking photos of Lake Bled, I’ll bet they were taken at the Mala Osojnica where you can see the lake framed by the town center, the Bled Castle, the Alps and of course the fairytale like church island.

We planned to visit on our way out as we left for the long drive to the Dolomites, but realised too late that there was a hike involved and there was not enough time.

Just one more reason to return….