Loud Springs

From Locarno we headed into the ‘real’ Switzerland… none of this Mediterranean climate stuff. We had travelled all this way with a suitcase half full of winter clothes and we didn’t want it to be for nothing (as much as I dislike the cold).

We catch the scenic Centovalli train for an unhurried journey climbing up through the alps, through the “Hundred Valleys” and down to Domodosola (strangely backtracking into Italy)… with great views of the mountains… breathtaking gorges with little waterfalls…spectacular bridges…green valleys… delightful villages time forgot…and ramshackle little vineyards.

We swap trains and head back to Switzerland on an equally scenic trip arriving in Interlaken well ahead of our original schedule.

As we have made good time we decide to leave our luggage at the train station (not nearly as simple as it sounds) and head for the Harder Klum which I had heard had magnificent views over the area.

It takes just eight minutes to travel by funicular from Interlaken to the Harder Kulm, Interlaken’s home mountain, where the restaurant, at 1322 metres above sea level, is reminiscent of a small castle. .. and has an amazing suspended viewing platform “the two lakes bridge” with magnificent views of the ‘big three’- the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau as well as over Interlaken. It starts to rain and the cold is a bit of a shock to our system at only about 4°…so we snap a few quick photos…

…(quick being the operative word as Sue is freaking out about the movement of the suspended platform)…

…and head inside for our introduction to traditional Swiss cuisine with a cheese fondue and hot chocolate.

Cant say we were big fans of the fondue but chocolate with cream is always a winner for me.

We catch another train, a cable car and a tram (the first of many spectacular rides, although the weather is certainly not ideal)…

… and finally arrive in Murren to even colder temperatures and rain. This is not what we wanted with all our planned activities being outdoor and needing fine (if cold) weather… although it is what we expected as we had been watching the weather closely and praying that God would come through again as he had continually throughout our travels. We drag our suitcases through the rain and are thankful when we arrive st our hotel, where we are staying for the next four nights. It literally sits right on the cliff face…

with the most spectacular view… we are in awe!

Despite the miserable conditions, Karen is practically wetting herself because there is snow on the mountaintops…

and we can see it from our room. And then we wake the next morning to a winter wonderland …with fresh snow all around us… and beautiful clear skies. Just wow! We could not have asked for more.

Murren, Switzerland looks like another one of those fairy tale villages from a Disney movie… you sort of expect to see Heidi walking down the street. It is the essence of Switzerland, that is for sure. The scenery in this part of Switzerland is stunning in any season…

but we have the best of both worlds with the green green valleys and flowers everywhere…and snow.

We head out early rugged up with all our layers, heading to the ‘top of europe’ which sits impressively at 11,371 feet, or 3,466 metres and is the highest railway station in Europe. Visiting the Jungfraujoch is a once in a lifetime experience where you can walk in the snow all year around and enjoy an up-close view of the most famous peaks of the region. We jostled huge crowds as this is one of the most popular attractions in the region especially on days like this when everyone wants to be up there to soak in the clear panoramic views. And the views are spectacular even on the journey… the fresh snow glistens like crystals in the sunlight.

The Jungfraujoch is a glacier “saddle” connecting the other two mountains next to the Eiger- Jungfrau and Mönch. And lucky for us, someone built a train line all the way up as I don’t think we would be trekking it! .Once you arrive, you are greeted by a jaw-dropping vista of the surrounding mountains …

…and Europe’s longest glacier- the Aletsch… stretching 23km. This alone makes it worth the trip.But it was freaking freezing -7° and windy…so only staying long enough to feed our photography addiction…

…we head back down the valley to Lauterbrunnen.

Another picture-perfect village, Lauterbrunnen is nestled deep in one of the most impressive trough valleys in the Alps, between gigantic rock faces and snow-capped mountain peaks that rise high above the green meadows … perhaps the prettiest village of all.

Standing in the middle of the village feels like entering the pages of a fairy tale.

Surrounding mountain peaks hide the valley away from the world. Laid-back and full of chalet-style lodging… and the now expected stunning floral displays, the village is backed by the roaring 300m high Staubbach falls, which is one of the highest free-falling waterfalls in Europe.

Dozens of waterfalls flow liberally down cliff faces in every direction. And a single white church with a pointy steeple sits on the banks of a gushing milky-blue river. Complete with cows walking down the main street, cowbells ringing.

Simply out-of-this-world perfect!

After a hot soup lunch, I leave the girls to shop and explore the town further while I go for a walk through the stunning valley, which is one kilometer in width and it’s tucked between the dramatic vertical rock walls and mountains. In German, Lauterbrunnen means: “Many Springs” or more accurately: “Loud Springs”, and the name is very appropriate. This little valley has no less than 72 waterfalls, some of which are several hundred meters high….although many of them were at a trickle being the end of summer. Anywhere you go in Lauterbrunnen you always hear the hypnotizing sound of water rushing down the rocks. The air is moist, but fresh and crisp like after a heavy rainfall and not nearly as cold as the Jungfrau. Perfect trekking weather.

My walk from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg was just glorious… down the entire Lauterbrunnen Valley with it’s many waterfalls and the constant tinkling of cow bells. I stopped off at Trummelbach falls which run through the centre of the mountain.

I have a love affair with waterfalls. My ex used to say he didn’t understand the attraction- “it’s just water falling over rocks”. But there is just something about their grace, beauty and absolute simplicity…across the world…wherever water flows and falls to whirl and shimmer and ripple… I will be there if possible.

And standing in front of a powerful waterfall like Trummelbach has a way of making you feel alive…. and a little bit terrified. The deafening roar of the falls, the strong breeze from the crashing water, and the ice cold mist hitiing your face makes it such an exhilarating sensory experience. These falls are not pretty… but they are awesome!

The Trummelbach alone drains the mighty glacier defiles of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau and carries 20,200 tons of Boulder detritus per year. It’s drainage area is 24km2 , half of it covered by snow and glaciers. Up to 20,000 litres per second which can be seen cascading, splashing and pounding down the mountain through tunnels and crevices and over waterfalls…which kind of makes the mountain shudder… just like me. It sounds like thunder. Although there are many viewing platforms, it is pretty impossible to photograph.

I continue my walk from the falls to Stechelberg village watching paraglider after paraglider float down from above and touch down in the meadows. Our plan was to be among them (for my birthday) but due to the extraordinary weather, they are booked out. We are still hoping….

And this is my view on my way home…

Leave a comment

Design a site like this with WordPress.com
Get started